I woke up this morning, and was envious of the days I went surfing until a few months ago. First the Red Tide stopped me. THen I became too sick with SPS to get back in the water. I know I could do it now, but the burden on my buddies is big, although I know they want to do it. And, it’s scary to be on the beach with them all out in the lineup.
And, its also scary to be in the lineup and not know if and when I will seize up. I will try to go out soon though.
My buddies are coming over in a fw weeks for a meetup at my house. Maybe I will share my fears and talk abou solutions.
What I miss a lot , though, and I am sure you can relate in your own life, is the ability to have the carefree joy of running down the boardwalk just before dawn, with my board, anticipating what the waves will look life, being stunned by the beauty and paddling out just as the sun is about to peek out from above the water line like a sunny side up egg....and turning and smiling at a fellow predawn surfer, quietly , as we both commune with nature, God, the universe at the spectacular beauty and specialness of this event ...
I miss that mightily.
And, its also scary to be in the lineup and not know if and when I will seize up. I will try to go out soon though.
My buddies are coming over in a fw weeks for a meetup at my house. Maybe I will share my fears and talk abou solutions.
What I miss a lot , though, and I am sure you can relate in your own life, is the ability to have the carefree joy of running down the boardwalk just before dawn, with my board, anticipating what the waves will look life, being stunned by the beauty and paddling out just as the sun is about to peek out from above the water line like a sunny side up egg....and turning and smiling at a fellow predawn surfer, quietly , as we both commune with nature, God, the universe at the spectacular beauty and specialness of this event ...
I miss that mightily.

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