Well, we didn't know the Wounded Warriors were coming to the beach today. They come annually. Those guys really do it up with marching, playing the bagpipes in cool Scottish kilts, and their cameraderie and stoke is priceless.
So we moved down the beach. Today was the day I tried to go without a wheelchair, and good thing because the warriors had all of them.
With my rescue team at ready, I was stoked that I could do it at all. I have increased my strength to surf on carefully selected waves to 40 minutes.
Sure, the waves were only shin to knee high at best. But, with good friends, glassy turquoise waves, a deserted peak, and tarpon breaching, what could be better!
....when you see yourself slipping away, it's such a shot of stoke to be able to surf, empty your mind, and connect with the energy of the ocean...
So we moved down the beach. Today was the day I tried to go without a wheelchair, and good thing because the warriors had all of them.
With my rescue team at ready, I was stoked that I could do it at all. I have increased my strength to surf on carefully selected waves to 40 minutes.
Sure, the waves were only shin to knee high at best. But, with good friends, glassy turquoise waves, a deserted peak, and tarpon breaching, what could be better!
....when you see yourself slipping away, it's such a shot of stoke to be able to surf, empty your mind, and connect with the energy of the ocean...

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